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Travels to Venice and
Prosecco Land
6 February 2004
 The
water taxi zoomed across the water to Venice, wound its way through
the canals, and stopped at Palazzo Abadessa—a 14th century palace
complete with ballroom, frescoes, 17th century paintings, and a
winding marble staircase. In low season, you could very well be the
only guests in the palace, which at just 150 EUR for a double room
for two including breakfast, is an unsung gem.
After settling in with a glass of the Italian sparkling wine
Prosecco, we took a water bus to the famous Hotel Danieli for
drinks. Dripping with gold and gilt, extravagance is what this place
is all about. The grand suite, worth around 3,300 EUR per night in
low season, is elaborate beyond belief: furnishings strewn with
sumptuous damasks, silks woven with gold and silver threads, and
quite possibly a private butler. Skip splashing out on that. Go
straight to the bar where opulence is a little more understated and
a live pianist serenades the low-lit room. Drinks are still pricey
but cost a fraction of what it would to dine or stay there.
So, order a bellini. Kick back. And enjoy. A true bellini is made
with the nectar of white peaches and Prosecco. In the winter, the
bartender might vary the cocktail and use strawberry or mandarin
juice instead. My favourite that night was the strawberry one—a
succulent pink drink served in a coupe Champagne glass with a fresh
ripe berry on the rim. All I needed was a long cigarette holder, a
black feather boa, and a… I digress. And what was served with these
drinks? Olives of course—green and black. But not just any olives.
Ones the the size of small plums with a ripe, robust flavour, and
firm almost juicy flesh.
If you prefer to go for your Bellinis at Harry’s Bar, it would be
understandable. Harry’s Bar is famous for Bellinis. It was the haunt
of Ernest Hemingway and Orson Welles, opened in 1931, and is the
birthplace of the Bellini. In 1948 Giuseppi Cipriani created the
drink, inspired by the 15th-century Venetian painter Giovanni
Bellini. If you do end up there, remember to drink at the bar. The
drinks are a fraction of the price of those served at the table—and
Harry’s Bar isn’t known for its prices.
Bellini Recipe
From Claudio Ponzio, head barman at Harry's Bar
for over 30 years
One third fresh peach juice and two thirds chilled
Prosecco sparkling wine.
Make sure to pour the peach juice into the glass first.
After a few cocktails, off we went for dinner at Il Sole Sulla Vecia
Cavana. The owner Stefano Monti serves good quality food and the
owner is passionate about provenance. We had a lovely three course
meal. The starter was a bundle of herbed soft cheese baked in thin
strips of succulent eggplant. The pasta course was fresh tagliatelle
with diced tuna in a tomato sauce with ripe capers and black olives.
Very well done. Next, the fish. Lightly breaded deep fried scampi
and calamari, tender and sweet, served with lemon. Finally, we
dipped our spoons into a scoop of basil sorbet to finish the meal.
Wine was matched to each course and, after a long leisurely dinner,
it was good to know the Palazzo Abadessa was steps away.
From Venice, the train speeds to the mainland and up into the hills.
Soon, we’re traveling by car through the province of Treviso along
the Prosecco trail—a winding road though the vineyards and small
historic towns. Prosecco is both the grape and the wine, which is a
crisp, pear-flavoured, fruity sparkler that’s been drunk in the
region for centuries.
After taking a look at the vineyards, which are very steep and so
pruned by hand, we checked into a nearby hotel in a little town
called Follina. Half of our party stayed in the modern, new Hotel
Dei Chiostri with jacuzzi whirlpool bathtubs while the other half
stayed across the road in the Relais & Chateau Villa Abbazia—part of
a 17th century building with terraces off the bedrooms and elaborate
dining rooms. In low season, a double room for two, including
breakfast, costs 180 EUR at the Villa Abbazia and 130 EUR at the
Hotel Dei Chiostri. Next door to the Hotel Dei Chiostri is a
charming little restaurant and wine bar where locals go. We went
there for drinks and then to a local restaurant where an open fire
warmed the dining room.
About five minutes up the road from the hotel is the Bisol winery in
Valdobiadene, which we toured the next day. Bisol makes a range of
wines but the most widely available is its Crede Prosecco, exported
to 30 countries. The wine’s made from mostly Prosecco with a bit of
Pinot Bianco and Verdiso to add complexity and create balance. The
colour of the final wine is pale yellow with small persistent
bubbles. Floral and apple, pear and pine aromas leap from the glass.
And on the palate, the same nuances wrap around your tongue
brightened with a crisp refreshing acidity and effervescence. The
wine is fruit forward without losing its elegance. In the UK, it
sells for £13.00. Not bad value.
In March, Bisol opens a 16th century farmhouse near the winery with
five guest apartments. Hardwood floors, exposed beams, and antiques
retain the rustic charm while modern kitchen and bathrooms—complete
with steam showers, aromatherapy, and Jacuzzis—add comfort. The
property is quiet and remote with acres of vineyards and vegetable
gardens, past which the Benneton family mansion can be seen on a
distant hill. Guests who stay in the farmhouse can participate in
cooking classes and wine tastings on the premises.
While we were there, a chef demonstrated how to make some
traditional local dishes including bigoli—egg yolk based pasta
pushed through a hand-churned press; chicory poached in Prosecco;
pork tenderloin fried in thyme oil and baked with a crusting of
bread crumbs, zucchini, mascarpone cheese, and almonds; and other
delights.
After the feast, it was time to be whisked back to the airport and
flown back to London. All this in 48 hours.
Flights: BMI London to Venice
Hotel in Venice: Palazzo Abadessa
Where to have drinks in Venice: Hotel Danieli or Harry’s Bar
Where to dine in Venice: Il Sole Sulla Vecia Cavana
Traveling from Venice to the Prosecco region: Take the hourly
train service from Santa Lucia Venice railway station on the grand
canal to Conegliano and rent a car from there
Where to stay in the Prosecco region: Hotel Dei Chiostri or
Hotel Villa Abbazia
Wineries to visit: Bisol,
www.bisol.it
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