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I HAVE A NEW FAVOURITE DRINK

By Carolyn Evans-Hammond, published in Outreach Connection in Toronto, ON, and distributed privately, 01/05/09

I have a new favourite drink.

The other night, I uncorked two bottles of wine—a good red Bordeaux and a lovely, lively Chablis. As it happens, the Merlot-based Bordeaux called Château Belair from the 2005 vintage missed the mark. It was technically correct, complex, concentrated and hit all the right notes on other measures of quality but I just wasn’t in the mood for that style of wine. So, I grabbed the Chablis, or to be more precise, grabbed the very good Domaines Louis Moreau Chablis, Grand Cru, Les Clos 2006, and tasted that. It blew me away. No better, technically, than the Bordeaux but a much better fit for me right then. And fit is so important.

I think for many of us, the warmer weather brings a longing for crisper, perhaps more austere white wines instead of heavier, rounder reds. So, this week’s column is dedicated to a round-up of refreshing whites I’ve recommended recently, starting with my new favourite drink—that incredible Chablis from the other night.

Domaines Louis Moreau Chablis, Grand Cru, Les Clos 2006 (LCBO# 0655464 $69.95)

I recommended this bottle in December and it’s still available in some Vintages shops. It’s almost the kind of wine I don’t want to write up again for fear stocks will dwindle but, since it’s you…. This Chablis is truly gorgeous. Good shake of pebbles in the palm with lacy lemon zest and gentle almond notes. Restrained but incredibly powerful and wonderfully stony. Some oak presence that comes through as a warm nuttiness. Expensive, yes. But no more really than the price of a night out. Read: Stay in and drink this instead. Pair with Sinatra. Or for the real jazz eggheads: some Cecil Taylor.

Jackson-Triggs Proprietors’ Grand Reserve Brut Méthode Classique 2003, VQA, Niagara, Ontario (LCBO# 0587691 $24.95)

Hats off to Jackson-Triggs for this nod to classic French Champagne. Much of the elegance, finesse and delicacy one would expect from a French fizz along with a fine beading of bubbles that forms a gentle mousse. Bracingly tight acidity combines with lacy restrained flavours of cooked apple and warm brioche to entertain the nose and palate. Very inviting.

Cave Spring’s Estate Riesling 2007, VQA, Niagara, Ontario (LCBO# 0286377 $17.95)

Wonderfully rich, round, racy Riesling here with sassy red and green apple flavours and the variety’s hallmark lime zest notes. Impeccable, refreshing, and dirt cheap for what’s in the glass. Almost begs to be served with grilled shrimp basted with butter.

Wandering Piano Sauvignon Blanc 2006 from Marlborough, New Zealand (LCBO# 0091017 $15.95) Incredible value here for a perfectly tuned, Gershwin-quality, text-book Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Wafting fresh herbs, bright gooseberry, and juicy pineapple notes recall summertime, when the living is easy.

Cristobal 1492 Verdelho 2008 from Mendoza, Argentina (LCBO# 0081182 $14.95) is a fruity, floral wine that exudes aromas and flavours of white pepper, lavender and lime. Could sell for twice the price and certainly a fit for this list.

Leyda Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2006 from Chile (LCBO #099309 $16.95) with its refreshing burst of lime and gooseberry with a long mineral almost chalky finish is stellar.

And last but seriously exciting is Gérard Neumeyer Riesling Les Hospices 2007 from Alsace, France (LCBO# 0106708 $18.95)—a killer buy. It starts with a captivating nose of lime, oven-warm bread, and almond oil before a delicious attack of fresh lime, wet stones, and roasted almond. Full, expressive, refreshing and long.

To find an LCBO near you that stocks a particular bottle, visit http://www.vintages.com and search by the product name or number.

This column is distributed privately, appears in Outreach Connection weekly, and is posted at www.wine-tribune.com. Seasoned journalist and qualified sommelier Carolyn Evans-Hammond has written for several major publications including Decanter Magazine, The Times newspaper, and Wine & Spirit International magazine in the U.K., as well as Maclean’s magazine, Taste magazine, Tidings magazine, The Toronto Star and The Province in Canada. Her bestselling book, 1000 Best Wine Secrets, is available at most major bookstores, and signed copies are available through her website. Carolyn’s next book is due out in March 2010.