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WINE COLUMN

 
DELICIOUS WINES FOR NEXT TO NOTHING

 

By Carolyn Evans Hammond, published in Outreach Connection and distributed privately on 14/08/09

I just read a story by Eric Asimov, wine critic for The New York Times, that reported US wine drinkers are trading down, preferring not to spend more than $15 on a bottle.  And Americans are not drinking less, which means the sub-US$15 bracket is bulging.  I’m really not surprised.  There are so many great finds in the lower price categories.  Granted, you can get a lot more for less than US$15 south of the border than you can for the equivalent here in Ontario but the statement still holds true here.

 

In fact, whileI was tasting through some flights of inexpensive wines for the book I’m writing for the US market, I was amazed at just how many really cheap wines are perfectly drinkable.  And reliable, big brands tend to be the best place to look for these deals since they use economies of scale to pass value on to consumers like you and me.  This isn’t always so but it often is the case. 

 

So, here’s a list of great wines for almost nothing, in order of price. 

 

 

Carlo Rossi Rhine, California, USA (LCBO 233155 $13.45 for 1500ml.)

In the iconic jug, here’s a perfectly drinkable white.  It’s shiny straw-yellow with candied lime on the nose and off-dry flavours of lime, green apple and ruby grapefruit.  The fruit’s shot through with a sassy squeeze of lime-squirt acidity to keep things fresh.  Light-bodied with 9% alc, which means you can quaff it worry-free in the sunshine.

 

Citra Pinot Grigio 2008 Sicily, Italy (LCBO 17483 $7.20)

This pale yellow wine with subtle green reflections starts with a captivating whiff of white peach and flowers before moving to a racy palate of lime zest and tart lemon sorbet.  Taut acidity tones the fruit of this well-balanced, dry wine, offering solid value from a traditional Italian producer.  Medium-bodied with 12.5% alc.

 

Sutter Home Family Vineyards White Zinfandel 2007, California, USA (LCBO 454355 $8.95)

Not hard to see why this is the best-selling White Zinfandel in America.  Gleaming silvery pink in the glass, the peach, orange, cantaloupe, and subtle strawberry flavors are delicate and off-dry with a good edge of incising acidity.  Light-bodied with 9.5% alc. 

 

And did you know White Zinfandel was created at Sutter Home Winery—accidentally?  To increase concentration in the maker’s red Zinfandel wines in the 1970s, Sutter Home extracted juice early in the winemaking process and used it to make a dry so-called White Zinfandel.  In 1975, a batch of this White Zinfandel stopped fermenting before the yeast had consumed all the sugar, leaving a wine that was light in alcohol and sweet.  Tasting it later, the winemaker liked it, bottled it, and tried to sell it.  It was a huge hit and the style remains popular today.

 

Folonari Soave 2007, Veneto, Italy (LCBO 176461 $10.95)

What a find!  This charming little Italian blend of 80% Garganega and 20% Trebbiano is gently reminiscent of lime and cool, wet stones.  Light- to medium-bodied with 12% alc., this is a classic and elegant dry wine everyone will like. 

 

Cavit Collection Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie 2008, Italy (LCBO 99218 $11.95)

This little number exudes breezy wildflower aromas before seducing the senses with racy lemon-lime and pink grapefruit flavors.  Graceful, elegant and very Italian but what I like best is the incredible texture—pure spun silk.  Light- to medium-body with  12% alc. 

 

Folonari Bardolino 2007, Veneto, Italy (LCBO 12344 $12.45)

This is a red, by the way.  And Bardolino has been produced in the province of Veneto since the Bronze age (3300–2000 BC).  Here’s a traditional blend of local grapes--55% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, 15% Molinara, 5% Negrara—that exudes very little aroma then rips across the palate with bright red cherry flavors.  Light and refreshing with bit of earthiness around the edges.  Good value food wine for a casual pizza or pasta night.  Medium-bodied with 12% alc.

 

To find an LCBO near you that stocks a particular bottle, visit http://www.lcbo.com and search by the product name or number. 

 

This column is distributed privately, appears in Outreach Connection weekly, and is posted at www.wine-tribune.com. Seasoned journalist and qualified sommelier Carolyn Evans-Hammond has written for several major publications including Decanter Magazine, The Times newspaper, and Wine & Spirit International magazine in the U.K., as well as Maclean’s magazine, Taste magazine, Tidings magazine, The Toronto Star and The Province in Canada.  Her bestselling book, 1000 Best Wine Secrets, is available at most major bookstores, and signed copies are available through her website. Carolyn’s next book is due out in March

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