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WINE COLUMN
GREAT ITALIAN BUYS AT THE LCBO
By Carolyn Evans Hammond, published in Outreach Connection and distributed privately on 04/09/09
What do you think of when you think of
Pasta? Pizza? Leather shoes perhaps?
What I think of is their attractive insistence on holding fast to traditional winegrapes. The country offers a huge range of grape varieties beyond the usual international mix of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and so forth. Sure,
Lately, the LCBO has been offering some incredible value wines from
Whites
This charming little Italian blend of 80% Garganega and 20% Trebbiano is gently reminiscent of lime and cool, wet stones. Such a find! Light- to medium-bodied dry wine that’s perfect for those last few days of summer. 12% alc.
I love the delicate complexity of this hugely underpriced wine. The steely nose leads to a restrained palate reminiscent of jasmine, lemons, white flowers, stones and apples before resonating with a dry lime finish. Quite a versatile and refined wine. Medium bodied with 13% alc.
Reds
This traditional blend of 55% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, 15% Molinara, 5% Negrara shows very little aroma then rips across the palate with bright red cherry flavors. It is light and refreshing with bit of earthiness around the edges. I like to think of it as a good value food wine for a casual pizza or pasta night. Medium bodied with 12% alc.
Gabbiano Chianti (LCBO 78006 $ 13.95)
This is a classic, great value Chianti that starts with wafting aromas of beef, cherries, earth and minerals before sliding across the palate with warm and enticing flavours of aged steak cooked rare, dusty cherries, and slight note of green olive. The high acidity and hint of tannic astringency on the finish reveals a structure that would benefit from being served with a tomato and meat sauce. Medium- to full-bodied with 13% alc.
Chiaramonte Nero d’Avola 2006, Sicily, Italy (LCBO 121145 $18.95)
I’m starting to have a thing for Nero d’Avola with its warm toffee aromas and satisfying attack on the palate. And this one is a fine example, reminding me of candy apples and homemade cherry pie but dry. Delish.
Dessert Wines
Pellegrino Passito di Pantelleria DOC, Sicily,
Passito is an Italian term for dried grape wine. Passito winemaking involves drying grapes after they’re picked to concentrate their sugars before fermentation, which results in a sweet wine. This wine shows subtle orange oil aromas that lead to pronounced and articulate flavours of orange peel, dried apricots, and peach conserve before finishing with a lingering apricot aftertaste and a final note of orange zest. Succulent and balanced, this wine is the ideal accompaniment to almond cookies. Full-bodied with 15% alc.
Santovino Sommavite Vino, Liquroso Vin
This medium-sweet wine is the traditional Italian after-dinner fix, served with dry almond biscotti for dipping. I remember it well in
To find an LCBO near you that stocks a particular bottle, visit http://www.lcbo.com and search by the product name or number.
This column is distributed privately, appears in Outreach Connection weekly, and is posted at www.wine-tribune.com. Seasoned journalist and qualified sommelier Carolyn Evans Hammond has written for several major publications including Decanter Magazine, The Times newspaper, and Wine & Spirit International magazine in the U.K., as well as Maclean’s magazine, Taste magazine, Tidings magazine, The Toronto Star and The Province in Canada. Her bestselling book, 1000 Best Wine Secrets, is available at most major bookstores, and signed copies are available through her website. Carolyn’s next book is due out in March 2010.