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WINES FROM A VITICULTURAL PARADISE
By Carolyn Evans-Hammond, published in Outreach Connection and distributed privately, Toronto, ON 24/10/08
I took the cobblestone footpath to Soma Chocolatemaker for a small square of caramel dunked in black chocolate sprinkled with sea salt—nirvana sold piecemeal from glass display cases by attractive artsy-cool women wearing surgical gloves. Hair tied back in headscarves or rubber bands. It was the perfect finish to the Chilean tasting in Toronto’s Distillery District earlier this month.
Chile. That long narrow strip of a country spins out some thrilling wine these days. And airtight reasons account for this happy fact. Chile is the land of vine-appropriate microclimates, disease- and pest-free vineyard conditions, ideal weather patterns, natural irrigation from mountain run-off, French-infused winemaking know-how, and low production costs. It’s recognized as a viticultural paradise by those in the know and it's spawning delicious vinous propositions at compellingly low prices. The thing is, Chile also makes some pretty rough stuff largely because most producers are still figuring out which grapes and winemaking techniques suit each patch of land.
Perhaps this is why the oldest, most established houses came out on top at this year’s tasting where 36 wineries showed their stuff. Viña Errázuriz (founded in 1870), Viña Concha y Toro (founded in 1883), and Viña Miguel Torres (founded in 1870) have been leading producers in Chile for decades. And they clearly remain so. Though this year, it must be said, wines by Viña Errázuriz were most consistently spot on—ripe but elegant, well-structured, and attractively priced—and are widely available at the LCBO, which is a feat in itself.
The current best bottles are noted below in ascending order of price. All of them offer wicked value.
Chile’s Winning Wines
Viña Errázuriz Sauvignon Blanc 2007 from Casablanca Valley, Chile (LCBO 263574, $11.85). Pale to the point of being almost colourless in the glass, this wine bursts with bright gooseberry and lemon-lime as well as subtle floral and cut grass notes. Fresh, clean and balanced. Ripe and crisp. Dry. Works well as an aperitif with salty snacks but simply stellar with steamed asparagus and crab cakes.
Concha y Toro Malbec Casillero del Diablo 2007 from Rapel Valley, Chile (LCBO 94060, $12.95). Loads of clean, smooth, blackberry, blueberry, and concentrated black plum fruit on the nose and palate. Pair it with a sauté of beef and wild mushrooms with wild rice and a side of baby bok choy.
Viña Errázuriz Merlot 2007 from Aconcagua Valley, Chile (LCBO 297887, $13.85). Imbued with clove, cherry and dark chocolate, this intense full-bodied offering is rich, soft, and palate-coating. It’s balanced and warm, finishing with the slightest hint of smoke. Zippy acidity cleanses the palate. Pizza wine.
Miguel Torres Cabernet Sauvignon Santa Digna Reserva 2006 from Curicó Valley, Chile (LCBO 177451, $14.95). Rich cherry vanilla nose leads to a gorgeously silky palate. Spicy, meaty wine full of black and red berry fruit. Elegant yet bold. Good match for a full-flavoured beef and onion braise with steamed Swiss chard.
Viña Errázuriz Shiraz Max Reserva 2006 from Aconcagua Valley, Chile (LCBO 614750, $17.75). Pepper and blackberry, blueberries, powdery violet, velvety mouthfeel. Lush. Lush. Lush. I like the thought of this wine with homemade fettuccine Alfredo made with fresh Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Viña Errázuriz Cabernet Sauvignon Max Reserva 2006 from Aconcagua Valley, Chile (LCBO 335174, $17.75). Classic cabernet sauvignon flavours and aromas of cassis, black forest fruits, green pepper and mixed spices prevail along with a subtle layer of vanilla. Fine ripe tannins. A good match for pan-fried steak with French fries. And maybe a few salted green beans drizzled with olive oil.
To find an LCBO near you that stocks a particular bottle, visit www.vintages.com and search by the product name.
This column is distributed privately, appears in Outreach Connection weekly, and is posted at www.wine-tribune.com. Seasoned journalist and qualified sommelier Carolyn Evans-Hammond has written for several major publications including Decanter Magazine, The Times newspaper, and Wine & Spirit International magazine in the U.K., as well as Maclean’s magazine, Taste magazine, The Toronto Star and The Province in Canada. Her bestselling book, 1000 Best Wine Secrets, is available at most major bookstores, and signed copies are available through her website.
