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Wine Column

CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE

By Carolyn Evans-Hammond, published in Outreach Connection and distributed privately, Toronto, ON 12/12/08

What stokes the spirit--Christmas or otherwise--like giving or receiving wine?  If you still have people to shop for, here are a few ideas. 

The Socialite

Give bubbly.  It’s the obvious choice so I won’t go into the trite allusions to a sparkling personality, effervescent this and bubbly that.  Instead I’ll just tell you to buy her—or him, but probably her—a bottle of Charles Heidsieck Champagne Réserve Brut, France, (0036962 $59.95).  This present is so much better than a sweater.  Why warm her torso when you can warm her soul?  Almost Krug-like with its creamy and toasted white Burgundy character, this tasteful wine is always a great fit.  Smart.  Done.

 

If a $60 bottle is over budget, reach for the closest thing I know to ChampagneRoederer Estate Brut Sparkling Wine from Anderson Valley, California (0294181 $28.95).  This estate is owned by Louis Roederer of Cristal Champagne fame and I must admit it bears some of the signature elegance, finesse, and flavours--cooked apple and butter pastry--of its French cousin.  Citrus, spice and mineral notes, reasonable complexity, and good length. 

 

If we’re still over budget, pick up a bottle of the more affordable but also charming Bellussi Belcanto Spumante Extra Dry from Veneto, Italy (0053215 $19.95).  Certainly one of the better Proseccos, it starts with a sweet almond nose then expands on the palate with marzipan and pear.  A dry and revitalizing drink.  And if your friend/cousin/uncle/sister/lover doesn’t want it, it will be a welcome re-gift.  Sorry.  Of course you don’t.  That’s naughty and you’re nice.

 

The Boss

Best to stay classic here and I know just the bottle.  Bouchard Père & Fils Meursault Genevrières 2006 from Burgundy, France (0087049 $101.95). Serious wine that says you know your stuff.  Quite extravagant nose and palate with much going on—buttered toast, apple butter, hazelnut, almond, warm bread, orange oil.  I could go on.  So I will.  Fine and lush.  Fairly full-bodied (13.5% alc.) and drinking beautifully now but will improve with a few years in bottle if cellared properly.

 

I would not recommend giving red because it’s much more difficult to select a really stylish white than a well turned-out red.  But if you insist, I’ll concede.   Pick up the 2006 Château de Beaucastel from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France (7111317 $90.95).  Good name.  Solid track record.  Stellar year.  And intense flavour.  Think black forest fruit, underbrush, anise, wood-burning fireplace, caramelized meat drippings, velvety texture and resonating length.  An obvious choice.

 

The Sophisticate

Notoriously hard to please sophisticates with an appreciation for subtlety will probably like a bottle of Domaines Louis Moreau Chablis, Grand Cru, Les Clos 2006 (0655464 $69.95).  Grand Cru Chablis such as this one from the prestigious Les Clos vineyard is particularly pleasing.  Good shake of pebbles in the palm with lacy lemon zest and gentle almond notes.  Restrained but incredibly powerful and wonderfully stony. 

 

The Film Buff

Francis Ford Coppola, director of The Godfather, owns a winery in California.   His Francis Coppola Diamond Collection Ivory Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 from California (0521021 $27.95) offers spectacular value.  Silky and robust flavours of cherry, cassis, vanilla and milk chocolate.  Balanced and fruity movie-night wine.

 

My Mother

I know.  My mother is probably not on your list.  But I would bet you’re buying for someone with her taste.  She likes white wines that are slightly sweet with cleansing acidity, good complexity and can be served straight from the fridge.  You guessed it, she’s a Mosel Riesling fan and who can blame her really?  German whites used to fetch higher prices than red Bordeaux for a reason and today they’re one of the most undervalued wines around. To please anyone with good taste and an open enough mind to tolerate a bit of obvious sugar in a wine, tuck a bottle of Balthasar Ress Riesling Kabinett 2007 from the Rheingau in Germany (0735241 $18.95) under the tree.  Quite pale in the glass.  Classic fresh nose of restrained lime then a powerful attack of almost creamy mixed citrus oils on the palate.  Very exciting aperitif.

 

The Brit or Brit at Heart

The English call red Bordeaux “claret”.  And to a Brit, Christmas and Claret go together like tea and the afternoon, bangers and mash, and perhaps more reluctantly, Blair and Bush.  Château Moulin d’Angludet 2004 (0087734 $38.95) would be a properly brilliant bottle to give.  It starts with a perfume of warm violet and earth before moving to an interesting palate of espresso, blackcurrant, cedar, cocoa, and violet again.  Sweet-talking wine with a French accent.  

 

The Oenophile

If you must buy wine for a vinous enthusiast, learn his or her preferences first or it could be like buying a Toronto Maple Leafs fan a piece of Boston Bruins paraphernalia, an avid Ayn Rand reader a Barbara Cartland book, or a Sarah Vaughan lover a Kid Rock CD.  In other words, it’s deeply personal so you don’t want to miss.  But I don't want to leave you entirely without a suggestion so, if you know s/he likes Italian reds, here’s a gem:  Monte Zovo Amarone Della Valpolicella Riserva 2003 from Veneto, Italy (651554 $53.95).  It starts with wafting aromas of spiced plum and massive flavours of juicy black and red berries, dried plum, and fresh fig, as well as spice, meat and dried herbs.  Quite concentrated and deep.  And made to last, just in case he or she has a cellar.

Another gift idea for the wine lover on your list: The personal breathalyzer on a keychain available at www.breath-tester.com for $14.99 plus taxes and shipping. 

 

Now I’ve done your list and mine.  See you at the LCBO.

 

 

To find an LCBO near you that stocks a particular bottle, visit www.vintages.com and search by the product name.

 

This column is distributed privately, appears in Outreach Connection weekly, and is posted at www.wine-tribune.com. Seasoned journalist and qualified sommelier Carolyn Evans-Hammond has written for several major publications including Decanter Magazine, The Times newspaper, and Wine & Spirit International magazine in the U.K., as well as Maclean’s magazine, Taste magazine, Tidings magazine, The Toronto Star and The Province in Canada.  Her bestselling book, 1000 Best Wine Secrets, is available at most major bookstores, and signed copies are available through her website.

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