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Wine Column

 

THIS IS A BLOG

 

By Carolyn Evans-Hammond, published in Outreach Connection and distributed privately, Toronto, ON  13/02/09

I got an angry note from a reader the other day.  Her beef: I don’t recommend Canadian wines often enough.  Well, truth be told, I’m more of a hedonist than a nationalist when it comes to wine so taste trumps provenance every time.  Canadian wines get tasted beside those from other countries and the best ones find their way on this page—though I do make exceptions occasionally. 

 

Such was the case a few weeks ago, when I tasted the full range of the newly released 2006 Le Clos Jordanne wines from Ontario and devoted my column to the fancy flight.  I thought it worthwhile given the first vintage of these wines, the 2004s, sold out the day they hit store shelves and the sell-out repeated with the 2005s.  At $30 to $70 a pop, I wanted to know—and let you know—if the 06 wines are worth it.  You may recall, this critic thought only three of the nine offered good value.

 

I might add, I get excited when I do taste delicious Canadian wine, and quickly recommend the bottle.  Such is the case with Jackson-Triggs Proprietors’ Grand Reserve Brut Méthode Classique 2003, a sparkling wine from Niagara (0587691 $24.95)—being released February 14th in Ontario.  It offers considerable elegance and finesse with impeccable balance of fruit and acid, fine beading of bubbles that form a gentle mousse, and tight acidity.  Lacy restrained flavours of cooked apple and warm brioche entertain the nose and palate.  Hats off to Jackson-Triggs.

 

Given the 14th is Valentine’s day, you may be looking for an over-the-top bubbly experience that sort of lifts you up and leaves you mid-air.  If that’s the case, uncork the fine French Champagne, Forget-Brimont Rosé Brut (0095059 $53.95) also just released in Ontario.  Made mainly from premier cru Pinot Noir grapes, this wine serenades the senses with the most marvelous strawberry and cream aromas and flavours.  Long and beautiful—three acts of Madame Butterfly in a glass, but with a happier ending.  Taste this on its own or with smoked salmon, and be prepared to swoon.

 

 

Though it seemed appropriate to lead with bubbly this week, the LCBO is releasing several other stellar wines I’m keen to tell you about, starting with the whites.

 

WHITES

 

First off, there’s Wandering Piano Sauvignon Blanc 2006 from Marlborough, New Zealand (0091017 $15.95).  Incredible value here for a perfectly tuned, Gershwin-quality, text-book Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.  Wafting fresh herbs, bright gooseberry, and juicy pineapple notes recall summertime.

 

Gérard Neumeyer Riesling Les Hospices 2007 from Alsace, France (0106708 $18.95) is another killer buy.  It starts with a captivating nose of lime, oven-warm bread, and almond oil before a delicious attack of fresh lime, wet stones, and roasted almond.  Full, expressive and long. 

 

And from Bordeaux, France, I was very impressed with Château Jarr 2007 (0106849 $15.95).  A classic Sauvignon Blanc seasoned with Semillon for body and complexity, this wine shows clean minerals, lime and a hint of waxy lanolin on the finish.  Completely different than New Zealand’s interpretation of Sauvignon Blanc—much more restrained but equally compelling.  Great match for crabcakes.  And for those concerned with sulphur consumption—like my hairdresser, Rico—this wine has just 8mg/L, which is very low indeed. 

 

REDS

 

My personal favourite red this week is Château de Pez from the wee commune of Saint-Estèphe in Bordeaux, France (0601427 $48.95).  This wine starts with aromas of dark chocolate, red tart cherries, and cream, which echo on the palate with added layers of smoke and pencil shavings.  This is a wine that proves the best value bottle is not always the one with the lowest price.

 

Also from France is the consistently delightful, Perrin Côtes du Rhône Nature 2006 (0015288 $10.45 / 375ml;  0948059 $17.95 / 750 ml)—an earthy, berry-packed blend of Grenache and Syrah.  Wines like these are why everyone and their uncles fall in love with wines from the Côtes du Rhône—smooth, ripe, and full of fruit.  This charming overachiever is organic and—hey, Rico!—only 21mg/L of sulphur.

 

From Mendoza, Argentina, Renacer Punto Final Reserva Malbec 2005 (0075077 $23.95) is a full-bodied winter warmer (14% alc.) that’s saturated with blackberry, violet, cherry and chocolate flavours with a toasted spice finish. 

 

And if Italian’s your thing, I must tell you about two captivating wines from the old boot.  First, there is Corte Zovo Sa’Solin Ripasso 2005 from Veneto (065713 $17.95).  Red and black licorice, smoke, cocoa, earth, pipe tobacco, pencil lead, and berries imbue this richly-fruited, velvety wine with a full body (14.5% alc.) and considerable length.  Seriously underpriced.

 

Next: I Castei Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2004 also from Veneto (0739979 $44.95)—a total stunner that’s heavily-weighted with dates, dried fig, black plum and walnut flavours as well as melting milk chocolate and spice.  Long, subtle, integrated, and ageworthy—though certainly drinkable now.  And great value despite the price.

 

There are several more wines I want to tell you about but I’m running out of room so I’ll list more next week. 

 

And by the way, in case you’re still wondering about the title of this piece, I’ve turned this column into a blog  so we can talk.  Me and you.  Come on over.  I’m at www.wine-tribune.com/blog. 

 

And to find an LCBO near you that stocks a particular bottle, visit www.vintages.com and search by the product name.

 

This column is distributed privately, appears in Outreach Connection weekly, and is posted as a blog at www.wine-tribune.com/blog. Seasoned journalist and qualified sommelier Carolyn Evans-Hammond has written for several major publications including Decanter Magazine, The Times newspaper, and Wine & Spirit International magazine in the U.K., as well as Maclean’s magazine, Taste magazine, Tidings magazine, The Toronto Star and The Province in Canada.  Her bestselling book, 1000 Best Wine Secrets, is available at most major bookstores, and signed copies are available through her website.



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