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South African Wine Under Fire

 

By Carolyn Evans Hammond

 

Prepared for Tidings Magazine, October 2009

With thunderclap intensity, the cloak is being ripped from the truth about South African red wines, leaving Cape producers reeling and scrambling.  What, until recently, has only been whispered in wine circles is hitting the press hard from London to New York.

 

Too many South African reds smell of burnt rubber—particularly Pinotage but also Cabernet Sauvignon and red blends.  And wine critics are finally committing the fact to print.  Jane MacQuitty, wine columnist for The Times newspaper in London, was probably the first to commit the words to print when she wrote, “South Africa has yet to tame its red wine’s peculiar burnt rubber and dirt odour.”

 

These words appeared in late autumn of 2007 and, in truth, it wasn’t really news to wine folks.  Then, the following spring, she removed the gloves and wrote, “A recent tasting of the five-star wines… widely regarded as the Cape’s crème de la crème, proved to be a cruddy, stomach-heaving and palate-crippling disappointment…. South Africa’s tell-tale dirty, rubbery red wine pong was there in abundance.” 

 

Any regular reader of MacQuitty will know her tone can be a little expansive anyway but these words stirred action among the South Africans.  And so it should.  Britain laps up more than a quarter of all Cape wine exports; by comparison, Canada buys just 4 per cent. 

To kick-start a desperate inquiry, Wines of South Africa threw a blind tasting of 60 wines for British wine hacks last October, asking them to point out those with the offending aroma.  The nine fingered bottles were hurried back to Stellenbosch University in South Africa for analysis.  The results were in earlier this year.  The findings?  Inconclusive. 

“We have not yet established scientifically what this aroma is or whether it is unique to South Africa”, read the interim report.  But the investigation continues with more results expected after this story goes to print. 

In truth, a broad allegation that simply accuses a whole country’s red wine production of being widely tainted is an unwieldy science problem to solve. 

Professor Florian Bauer who is heading up the investigation at the University wasn’t available for comment before this story’s deadline but he did tell The New York Times in June, “As a scientist, you would never approach a problem from this angle…. We were not even sure what smell we were looking for.  This research is a response to an ill-defined description in a newspaper.”

 

Pinpointing the problem or battery of problems will only be the first step though.  After that, South Africa must fix it, which may be time-consuming and challenging given its breadth.  So we should probably expect burnt rubber in many South African reds for some time to come.

Obviously, scorched Michelins aren’t what most of us are looking for in red wine but winemakers toast barrels all the time to impart smokiness.  And it’s easy to argue a note of smoke or rubber, if not overpowering, isn’t always unpleasant when integrated with other flavors and aromas. 

Hey, petrol flavours are revered in aged Riesling, micturating felines is enthusiastically anticipated in Sauvignon Blanc, and don’t get me started on “barnyard” in mature red Burgundy.  Okay, if you insist.  It’s an open secret “barnyard” is a euphemism for “merde”—something Anthony Hanson MW first put in print in the 1982 edition of his book, Burgundy where he wrote, “Great Burgundy smells of shit.”  Honestly.  Compared with that aroma, what’s a little rubber? 

Though, to put things back in perspective, South Africa’s rubber problem is not about nuance, it’s about shades of stench.  And in that way, rubber taint—if it is proven to indeed be a taint—would be not unlike Brettanomyces.  Brettanomyces, or “Brett” as it’s casually called, is a yeast that can get into wine.  Technically, it is a fault because in large quantities it can spoil wine.  Yet most wine enthusiasts agree, small amounts of Brett add complexity and character to a bottle with notes of sweaty saddle, barnyard, bacon, or cloves.  I mean, Brett is pretty much expected in many Rhône reds including those of the respected Château de Beaucastel as well as Lebanon’s most famous wine, Château Musar.  But since people have different thresholds of sensory perception; what’s barely detected by one sniffer can overwhelm another. 

Looking closer at the elastic nature of sensory perception, palates don’t just differ individually—I like olives, you don’t; they differ collectively.  Italians like bitterness; Americans hanker for sweetness; Brits lean toward sourness; and so forth.  Could it be that South Africans have a penchant for acridness?  Okay, it sounds like a stretch but South Africans only seemed to consider the acrid aroma of burning rubber may be offensive after key journalists in the vital UK market pointed it out. 

And theories are flying about what it could be.  Some people attribute it to Cape winemaking—or more specifically, maceration and fermentation there.  The idea here is that “burnt rubber” is a well-understood sulphur-related wine flaw, which can be managed in the winery.   Others argue the flavor flows from problems in the vineyards—specifically, leafroll virus, which affects much of the Cape and impairs the full ripening of berries.  Still others say the eucalyptus trees in and around vineyards are to blame. But the trees tend to impart eucalyptus aromas instead of burnt rubber so that theory is a tad weak. 

Just as an interesting aside though, studies by ETS Laboratories—a shop in California that specializes in analyzing wine—confirms  eucalyptus oil vaporizes from trees, and gets caught in nearby grapes’ natural waxy coating.  The oil then gets dissolved during the extended maceration of red winemaking, and preserved during fermentation.  So, it’s been scientifically proven nearby eucalyptus trees near vineyards impart their pungent flavor in red wine. 

Smoke can do the same thing in vineyards, leaving deposits on the grapes.  But evidence suggests smoke even gets absorbed though the plant’s leaves, finding its way into the grape pulp.  This would explain why even white wines—with their minimal skin-juice contact during winemaking—can show smoke taint.  This point is not moot.  Just when the South African winemakers need it least, multiple bushfires have hit the Cape and some of its vineyards this year.  These unfortunate disasters will not help dim the current spotlight on smoke and rubber in Cape wine.

 

While South Africa probes the hot and sticky burnt rubber issue, it’s important to remember South Africa makes an unstopping flood of terrific wine too.   I especially like the Sauvignon Blanc being spun from the Cape as well as the Pinot Noir from Hamilton Russell Vineyards.  And some South African reds are still certainly praiseworthy.  Perhaps best of all, it’s hard to beat the prices.  After all, South Africa lacks the caché of more prestigious wine regions such a New Zealand, Burgundy, Bordeaux, Tuscany or even California.  One could even argue South Africa makes some of the best value wines in the world right now, if you choose the right bottles.

So while we wait for the next chapter in this smoldering tale, here’s a list of wines well worth sipping.

Sparkling

 

Graham Beck Brut NV ($19) 

If you, like me, don’t need a reason to uncork bubbly but cannot afford Champagne every day of the week, I highly recommend this South African sparkling wine.  Like Champagne, this dry fizz blends Chardonnay with Pinot Noir, using strict form to create vinous free verse.  Slight mushroom and truffle aromas hover and twist toward cooked apple flavours wired with keen acidity before beginning a long, slow, graceful descent toward warm bread on the finish.   

 

Food Match: Toasted brioche topped with sautéed mushrooms and a poached quail’s egg. 

 

Whites

 

Boschendal 1685 Grande Cuvée Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($16)

Untamed and compelling aromas of steaming asparagus and freshly-cut lime lead to a big gush of damp herbs, green asparagus, cat’s pee, and lemon.  Racy, exciting, freely-expressive wine in the full-throttle New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc style.  Great value.

 

Food Match:  Crab cakes with steamed asparagus.

 

Boschendal Reserve Collection Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($17)

Heaving flavours and aromas of cool cut grass, garden-fresh asparagus, and bright green apple reveal a drink that is like a hard energy liquefied on the tongue.  Tasted blind, you would swear this was a cult Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand at twice the price.  Full-bodied with 13% alc. and well-balanced.

 

Food Match: Sautéed chicken breasts slathered with pesto and served with buttered green beans and crusty bread.

 

KWV Cathedral Cellar Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($10)

Masses of clean fruit attack the palate, and then cascade with cashew nut, green pepper and a good rattle of stone before seducing you back with aromas of candied lime and minerals for another sip.

 

Food Match: Spaghetti tossed with butter and fresh green peas, sprinkled with Parmigiano-Reggiano. 

 

Kumkani Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($15)

Scrupulously clean wine that bulges with gooseberry, green leafy notes and vivid citrus peel.  A certain broadness on the palate is held in place by taut acidity.  Quenching and harmonious. 

 

Food Match: Goat cheese, walnut, and roasted red peppers tossed with mixed greens and olive oil.

 

Goats do Roam White 2008 ($12)

Creamy peach flavors and aromas edged with toast and nuts.  Good value, full-bodied quencher with zippy acidity.

 

Food Match: Roast ham with sautéed sweet bell peppers and onions.

 

Reds

 

Hamilton Russell Vineyards Pinot Noir 2005 ($25)

This wine makes my pulse quicken.  Approximating Côte de Nuits, this Burgundian effort from the Cape exudes ripe, clean berries and crushed stones before lapping up against flavours of strawberry, earth, barnyard, meat and violet and then withdrawing slowly and finishing with a firm mineral core.  Articulate, silky, and tantalizingly restrained.  Evolved.  Ready to drink and quite full-bodied with 14% alcohol.

 

Food Match: Duck confit with wild rice.

 

Sebeka Shiraz Pinotage “Cape Blend” 2007 ($12)

Pull the leopard print stopper on this wine and pour yourself a glass of great sensual appeal.  Starting with smoked blackberries on the nose, this wine moves swiftly across the palate with velvety smoothness—meat, berries and spice.  Very good value blend of 58% Shiraz and 42% Pinotage offering a great way to spend a firelit evening.  Full-bodied.  13.5% alc.  And no rubber.

 

Food Match: Flame-grilled steak and roasted potatoes.

 

Cathedral Cellar Pinotage 2005 ($17)

This wine winks and nudges toward the variety’s hallmark black licorice notes before fanning out into smoked black plum, blackcurrant and black cherry.  Very smooth mouthfeel.  Killer wine for the price.  Ideal cocktail alternative.  Again, no rubber.

 

Food Match: Slow roasted, dry spice-rubbed back ribs.  Or as a cocktail, with a handful of nuts.

 

JJ Hand Made Wines Merlot 2006 ($18)

Clean nose of plum purée and black cherries leads to smooth, succulent flavours of blackberry, damsons, cassis, anise, and a kick of black pepper. 

 

Food Match: Pan-fried steak with a Merlot and berry reduction.

 

Charles Back Fairview Shiraz 2007 ($17)

You could almost spoon this wine into your mouth.  A whack of jammy fruit layered with smoked meat, black peppercorn, and dry cocoa.  Lush and ripe but spicy and savoury like a Rhône Syrah rather than sweet and chocolaty like an Aussie Shiraz.

 

Food Match: Barbecued hamburgers.

 

Klein Draken Pinotage 2007 ($16)

Typical Pinotage flavours and aromas of black licorice and berries but also laced with dried plum and dark chocolate covered raisins.  Lovely, dense, rich wine with impeccable balance and a good weight in the mouth.  Velvety finish.  A bit short but still phenomenal value for the money.

 

Food Match: Seared bison with scalloped potatoes.

 

[SIDEBAR]

Did you know?

They call South African wines “Cape wines” because most of the country’s vineyards are located around the Cape of Good Hope.

 

 

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