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Sherry: Not Just for Santa and the Over 60 Set
by Carolyn Evans-Hammond, published in Taste magazine's 2008 Holiday Issue
Santa’s preference for Sherry and mince pie shows he’s in the know.
Sherry is one of the best kept secrets of the wine world. Just ask anyone in the wine trade and they’ll tell you, it packs more pleasure than almost any other wine style. Sherry is very, very cool. And not just for the over 60 set.
This fortified wine from the
So why isn’t it more popular? Aside from its granny image, its nomenclature is a bit of a problem. How do you remember which ones are dry, sweet, pale, dark, salty, nutty, and raisin-like? And what is the difference between a Manzanilla, an Amontillado and a Palo Cortado?
Before you throw in the towel and grab another Pinot Grigio to go with those olives or Port for after dinner sipping, check out these easy ways to remember your Sherry styles.
Ranging from dry and pale to sweet and dark are Manzanilla, Fino, Amontillado, Palo Cortado, Oloroso, and Pedro Ximénez (PX). The first four are dry wines that spend time in barrel under a film of natural yeast called “flor” imparting a slightly bread-like character.
Manzanilla and Fino are pale white wines because the flor kept them fresh and protected from oxygen so both styles are similarly neutral tasting. Manzanilla however tastes a bit saltier than Fino. This has nothing to do with the fact Manzanilla is always made in the seaside town of
Amontillado and the rarer Palo Cortado are essentially aged Finos. They start out as Finos then lose their flor, becoming amber, oxidized, and nutty. Both can be dry or slightly sweet and both pair beautifully with cold meats as well as spicy Indian and Thai fare. The only difference is Palo Cortado is richer in colour and complexity than Amontillado.
When you think Oloroso, think gourmet trail mix flavours. This fully oxidized style is full-bodied, amber-to-brown coloured, and brimming with fruit and nut-nuances. It’s traditionally bone dry but is often sweetened these days and noted on the label. Dry Sack and Cream Sherries are sweetened Olorosos. Dry or sweet, Oloroso works amazingly well after dinner with the cheese course.
The sweetest style of Sherry available is Pedro Ximénez—a syrupy wine reminiscent of raisin pie. Without a doubt, PX is best poured over vanilla ice cream, sprinkled with pralines.
PX may be sweet, but this news is sweeter. The Regulatory Council of the
On the topic of service, Sherry never needs decanting regardless of style, and is best served in smallish glasses. The classic form is the “copita”, which holds 120 ml in its elongated, tapered bowl designed to capture a wine’s bouquet. Snifters also work well for Olorosos.
The next question: To chill or not to chill. Fino and Manzanilla Sherries taste best well chilled. All other styles from Amontillado to Oloroso are best served cellar temperature (10-13°C) and the better the Sherry the less you chill it.
Contrary to popular myth, Sherry does not keep well. Once uncorked, delicate Finos and Manzanillas lose finesse quite quickly—best to drink them in one sitting. Meanwhile, oxidized styles—Amontillados, Olorosos, and even Pedro Ximénez—can stay fresh for up to a week after uncorking but these too fade noticeably shortly thereafter. This is why half bottles are an excellent idea.
Even unopened, Sherry won’t improve with time in bottle; it’s matured in barrel at the bodega and should be consumed as soon after bottling as possible. That means, if jolly old Saint Nick puts Sherry in your stocking, don’t save it for next Christmas to share with him over mince pie. Consider yourself lucky. Then, drink up.
Sherry Recommendations
González Byass Tío Pepe Fino,
Shining a lovely pale straw colour, this archetypal Fino is bone dry and quite neutral with a slightly salty tang. Hints of fresh bread, salted almonds, white flowers and lemon-lime twist are quietly at play on the nose and palate. Mouthwatering freshness. Excellent aperitif with olives and nuts. Clearly I’m not the only one who likes this wine; it is the best-selling Fino in the world.
Remembering an Amontillado is a Fino that lost its flor and become oxidized, this pale amber wine shows a bit of the warm bread character on the nose followed by toasted pecan flavours edged with dried apricot and spice. Slightest hint of sweetness offset with zippy acidity. Good length. Good value.
Williams & Humbert Dry
Dry Sack is another name for sweetened Oloroso much like a Cream Sherry but without as much residual sugar. Golden colour with roasted caramel notes, almond and walnut. Light enough to be sipped before a meal.
Williams & Humbert Walnut Brown,
This sweet Oloroso gleams a deep brown with a golden glint in the glass. Dried fruit, nuts and toffee. Rich and robust with balancing acidity. Smooth and long.
Harvey’s Bristol Cream, Spain, $8.99 (375 ml) 215491; $18.49 (750 ml) 215483; $23.99 (1 L) 215509
Despite its reputation as being a bit old-fashioned,
Emilio Lustau East India
Beautiful mahogany colour and intense aromas and flavours of crème brûlée, mixed nuts, dates, dried figs, and raisins. Considerable depth of flavour and finesse developed by blending Sherries 15 to 50 years old. Sweet but balanced with a good seam of palate-cleansing acidity. Superb finish to a meal.
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