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Pinot Noir: Can The New World Match The Old World Yet?

by Carolyn Evans-Hammond, published in Taste magazine, 2009 Spring Issue

Tasted Pinot Noir?  If you’ve seen the 2004 flick, Sideways, you probably have.

Before that movie, Burgundy-philes were like a secret club of hardcore oenophiles sharing their private passion for Pinot Noir, the grape of France’s northerly region that can make silky wines of drop-dead elegance—seriously seductive stuff.  Then Sideways blew the club wide open.  Almost everyone who saw the film flocked to taste this holy grail of red wine.  Winemakers in California, referring to the “Sideways effect”, responded swiftly by cutting Merlot vines off at the trunk and grafting on Pinot Noir.  Now, everyone wants in on the game and New World winemakers are churning out Pinot Noir everywhere from the United States to Australia.  As they toil away in the vineyards and wineries to capture the elusive thrill factor of Pinot Noir, the question on everyone’s mind is, can any region in the world measure up to Burgundy yet? 

 

The short answer is, no.  No one is replicating the intricate tapestry of aromas and flavours of top red Burgundy yet.  How could they?   France has been working with Pinot Noir vines in the stony soils of Burgundy for about 1700 years—since the 4^th century—to coax the best flavour and aroma from the fruit within the warm womb of family-owned and -run estates.   Frankly, the new technologies, gotta-give-it-a-go enthusiasm, and bundles of wealth of the New World cannot easily match the quiet, plodding progress of Burgundy. 

 

If it was any other grape, things may be different but Pinot Noir is the world’s most challenging vine variety with which to make wine so it is high risk for makers—and drinkers.  It mutates easily, is susceptible to disease, and yields thin, pale, acerbic wine if it’s fermented frantically, made from the wrong clones, or grown in unsuitable places.  Yet, at best, it is a complex, silky, beguiling wine that improves with age, and is almost certainly worthy of many precious pennies. 

 

Just how many pennies?  Today, Romanée-Conti—the revered Burgundy against which all other Pinot Noir is judged—can sell for thousands of dollars per bottle.  It is among the most sought after and expensive wines in the world.  In fact, the New York auction house, NYwines/Christie's, sold six magnums of the 1985 vintage for US$170,375 in March 2006, which equals US$14,198 or CAN$18,000 per regular-size bottle. 

 

Frankly, Pinot Noir is a grape full of promise and no one delivers on that promise like the leading vignerons of Burgundy.  But precious little of this excellent elixir is made while lashings of overpriced, mediocre red Burgundy is bottled and sold by makers keen to cash in on the region’s reputation.  The only way to be sure the wine won’t let you down is by buying from a reliable producer.  With demand for fine Burgundy rising and production levels static, how fine it would be if more top caliber Pinot Noir could seep into the market. 

 

The good news is, newer regions are producing some very good Pinot Noir despite the fact it’s not quite not quite Burgundian.  And since this grape reflects its place so transparently, each area’s signature styles are surfacing.  Here’s a guide to today’s better Pinot Noir. 

 

Pinot Noir Style Guide

 

Burgundy

The best rings of violet, game, and canned strawberries, as well as barnyard, earth and minerals wrapped in the silkiest texture imaginable. 

 

Languedoc (France)

Soft, fruity, and rustic if simple wines that offer good value.

 

Canada

Our nation’s produces fine Pinot Noir from Ontario and BC.  At best, it’s elegant and racy with a complex, savoury, almost mineral character not unlike mid-level Burgundy stylistically. 

 

Oregon

Top-tier Oregon Pinot Noir is full-fruited, deeply-coloured wine with considerable complexity reminiscent of raspberry, black forest fruit, spice, earth and sometimes coffee, cola and truffle.  The best bottles come from the Willamette Valley. 

New Zealand

This island is starting to make a name for producing paler, crisp, delicate Pinot Noir with flavours of red berry fruit but often lacking the savoury quality found in Burgundy.  Regions to look for on labels are Martinborough and Central Otago.

 

South Africa

Just one leading maker in the cool, maritime Walker Bay district of South Africa is thought to be crafting almost-Burgundian Pinot Noir.  Hamilton Russell is making an elegant style that exudes sweet spice, clean fruit and that mineral core that is a hallmark of red Burgundy.

 

Germany

Lighter, off-dry, good-value versions come from this traditional region where Pinot Noir is often called Spätburgunder or Blauburgunder.

 

California

Californian Pinot Noir varies from those saturated with cooked fruit flavours, spice and high alcohol to wines that are thin, pale, and acerbic.  The most graceful Pinot Noir from this state seems to come from the Russian River in Sonoma.

 

Australia

Much of this country is too hot to make compelling Pinot Noir but if you’re looking for an easy-drinking if slightly jammy style for mid-week quaffing at a reasonable price, Aussies deliver.

 

 

RECOMMENDATIONS

 

FAIVELEY

BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR PAULÉE 2005

Burgundy, France $22.99 142448

This is an excellent price for a fine quality red Burgundy by a reputable producer.  The 2005 vintage was an outstanding year so the fruit for this wine was thick-skinned and flavourful.  The wine shows a deep garnet colour with concentrated berries, violet and hints of spice.  Velvety wine that’s a pleasure to drink now.

 

DROUHIN

COTE DE BEAUNE 2005

Cote de Beaune, Burgundy, France  $32.49 232298

Impressive value.  From a marvelous 2005 vintage, this red Burgundy teems with crushed raspberry and red currant fruit.  Harmonious, smooth and captivating.  Ruby red colour, pure berry fruit, as well as floral notes, red meat and minerals.  Charming.  Drinking well now but will reward patience if you can lay it down for three to five years.

 

BARON PHILIPPE DE ROTHSCHILD 2007

PINOT NOIR

Vin de Pays d’Oc, France $13.97  214056

Starts with a juicy nose of plum jam then caresses the palate with fresh clean red and black plum as well as plum jam, hints of warm earth and pepper spice.  Balanced and easy mid-week Pinot Noir.  Ready to drink.

 

KENWOOD RUSSIAN RIVER 2006

PINOT NOIR

Sonoma California $21.99  219881

Beetroot and cranberry aromas lead to a full-bodied palate in this deceivingly pale wine with a massive 14.5% alcohol.  More thin and austere than most New World Pinot Noir, it will appeal to those who prefer tart, lean cranberry flavours to richer more jammy styles.  Good match for roasted poultry.  Drink now.

 

LINDEMANS BIN 99 2007

PINOT NOIR

Australia $13.99 458661

Ripe raspberry and tinned strawberries on the nose lead to a juicy palate of stewed strawberries, ripe cranberry jam, and slight medicinal notes.  Clean, fresh, and medium- to full-bodied (13.5% alcohol) with a crisp streak of palate-cleansing acidity.  Good value for money in this well-made Pinot Noir.  Ready to drink.

 

BLACK TOWER 2007

DORNFELDER PINOT NOIR

Germany $14.60 580118 

Germany's most widely exported branded wine in the tall, mottled bottle delivers surprisingly fair value.  It’s a fruity, round, off-dry German Pinot Noir that starts with a muted berry nose then attacks the palate with crisp cranberry, sweet and tart cherries, and a silky mouthfeel.   Ready to drink.

 

 

 

 

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