Then, like a dream, in walked the very lean, very clean, unwooded Pinot Grigio whispering a compelling proposition: to quench and refresh like that old flame Chardonnay never did.  Even its lilting name—Pinot Grigio—seemed exciting as it rolled off the tongue.  North America was smitten and Pinot Grigio skyrocketed to its current place as the most popular imported white wine, coast to love-struck coast. 

Italians have been drinking Pinot Grigio for years all over the old boot.  They drink it with fish from waters off the eastern seaboard; it’s a perfect pairing.  Pinot Grigio is notoriously neutral so it doesn’t bother seafood with strong flavours and aromas—a style fostered by winemakers.  Wineries harvest the prepubescent berries before they have time to develop their own ideas.  It’s not even a “yes” wine; it’s mute.  Which is the point really.  If you want to actually taste something, reach for Pinot Gris. 

Both Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris are made from the same grape variety but Pinot Gris is fuller-bodied, more complex, and ages more gracefully than Pinot Grigio.  How so?  It’s all in the technique.  While Pinot Grigio fruit is plucked under-ripe, makers of Pinot Gris leave the grapes on the vine to ripen fully so the resulting wine brims with flavors and aromas of richly spiced peach and other nuances.  In the best cases, fine Pinot Gris morphs into tantalizingly complex creatures to savour not swill.

Quite amazing how Pinot Gris travelled far from its birthplace in Burgundy, France and evolved into two very different styles to match local cuisines.  First, Pinot Gris vines were taken to Switzerland in the Middle Ages; then, Emperor Charles IV took cuttings to Hungary around 1375; and then, in 1568, a colonel from the imperial army took this grapevine to Alsace and, finally, Germany.   In these northern climes, the ripe berries with a coppery hue were pressed into a flavourful and deeply-coloured white wine that paired well with the cheeses, fried meats, and other heavy foods.  Then, the grapevine turned south to Italy, where the locals pressed the berry bunches young to preserve the freshness and lemon-squirt acidity to go with lighter fare.

the best Pinot Grigio still comes from Italy where it tends to possess a gentle floral and stony notes rather than simply featureless fruit.  And the best Pinot Gris comes still comes from France (Alsace) and Germany though marked differences exist between the French and German wines.  Both versions are richly fruited, sure.  But Alsatian Pinot Gris finishes crisp and dry making it an easy food partner while its German counterpart is often a bit sweet on the finish—best served as aperitifs, partners for spicy fare, or finishes to meals, with the cheese course.  Meanwhile,

Some interesting stuff is being made outside the more traditional regions but it’s harder to come by.  A bit touch and go really.  As with everything, the people are more important than the places; buy from a reliable producer and the wine won’t let you down. 

Leading Makers of Pinot Gris

Alsace (France)

Zind-Humbrecht

The leading producer of rich, complex Alsatian Pinot Gris by the revered winemaker, Olivier Humbrecht.

Trimbach

The top maker of more restrained, elegant Alsatian Pinot Gris.

Hugel